CP Days 8 and 9 Arcade to Caldas de Reis - 38 kms

Yesterday. Arcade to Pontevedra - 15 kms

A lovely day yesterday, though not much walking involved - just three hours into Pontevedra. Cold and mostly grey, but the predicted rain didn't arrive until we were already in the outskirts of town. We sheltered for 10 minutes or so and then walked on to the Parador, where we checked in around 11.30. A gorgeous corner room, with a lovely bath tub - and collection of bath products - which I took advantage of twice during our brief stay.

Pam and Peter's train from Santiago arrived around 1 and we met near the Basilica at 2. Enjoyed a very Spanish lunch of serrano, manchego. calamares, ensalada mista - and vinos blanco and tinto. Siestas all round in the afternoon - and a quick stroll in the lovely old town for Domi and me. We all met up again at 7.30 for an aperitif at the Parador - took some nice mirror selfies in the entry hall - and then went in search - successfully - for dinner.  It was a great catch up.  Didn't get 'home' until almost 11 - very late for peregrinos.

Today.  Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis - 23 kms

After all the fun, food and wine of yesterday, we enjoyed a sleep-in and made a late start at 9.30. Quite cold again today with grey skies but no rain. The path could have been a peaceful one but for the many large groups of cyclists we seemed to be dodging for much of the day.

Today was the Monday of a long weekend in many parts of Europe including Spain and Portugal, and many people have taken the opportunity to cycle on The Way. Even on the narrow rocky paths, suddenly 8 or 10 cyclists appear from behind. Nerve wracking at times. Domi remained patient and calm. He is very centred and good at not allowing external factors to affect him. Me, on the other hand ...  it threw me off balance - sometimes literally - and tested my tolerance. I failed the test convincingly.

Hopefully, with the long weekend over, things will get back to 'normal' tomorrow for our second to last day on the Camino Portuguese.

J x

CP Day 7 Vigo to Arcade - 24 kms

A shorter post today after yesterday's musings. It took us some hours to walk out of Vigo but starting from our hotel in Vigo Alta we were well away from any major roads. The scenery was unremarkable for the first few hours but calm and easy walking. Around 11 we moved into a peaceful forest and natural path and by noon had arrived in Redondela where the Coastal Way and Central Way meet.

We stopped for lunch virtually at the crossroads of the two paths - delicious bocadillos. In that short time more peregrinos walked past us - coming from the Central Way - than we had seen in our six days since leaving Porto Covo. When we continued on our way, a short time later, we noticed a small group had formed outside the municipal albergue waiting for the 1pm opening. So the number of walkers on this route is much greater, as expected, but doesn't seem to be overwhelming.

We, and others, walked on about 7 kms to the small town of Arcade where we slipped back in to pilgrim mode staying at an albergue - modern, clean and comfortable and 12 euros pp. I estimate there are about 20 peregrinos here. Excellent facilities and great hot water in the shower (important detail!). And a Camino first for me - far as I can recall - a communal shower, but happily in separate bathrooms for male and female. I was surprised initially by the large open rectangular shower area with three shower nozzles, one already in use by a young South African girl we'd chatted to a few hours earlier. And then I was surprised that I didn't feel particularly uncomfortable. I suspect it may be easier showering with strangers than friends. Or maybe that's just me.

Not a lot of distance to cover over the next four days - about 75 kms to Santiago. We're  not used to this cruisy pace but it's relaxing and probably a bonus with my dodgy shin! Tomorrow we are having a particularly short day - around 15 kms into Pontevedra to catch up with sister and brother in law Pam and Peter. They've been travelling for nearly 12 months now. They emailed just a few days ago asking our whereabouts. They were a day away from Santiago having walked via northern camino routes and thought we might be not too far away - and so we are! The serendipity of the Way?

The French tells me that the temperature will drop significantly overnight, with a high probability of rain - if it buckets down at least we won't be 'on the road' for too many hours. And when we arrive, we'll be checking into the Parador. Also not scheduled but ... pourquoi pas? Neither as expensive nor indulgent as you'd imagine ... really. More on that that tomorrow.

J x